The first few months of 2014 have quite literally flown by
and although I’ve encountered many interesting food adventures, I find myself
only just catching up on several of the more noteworthy culinary delights in
around town. Here's one we sampled in March and it's worth another try.
A relative newcomer to the 904 and the Markets at Town
Center is Moxie Kitchen + Cocktails. Described as a Full-Circle Approach restaurant, this “not for a special occasion”, eco-minded, contemporary watering hole is the culinary brainchild of
former Bistro AIX Chef Tom Gray. The
restaurant’s concept is simple: local, sustainable and organic ingredients
giving way to American flavors found from coast to coast. The building is fantastic with its breathtaking urban rustic
décor, inviting open kitchen and outside dining options allowing for a truly unique and
environmentally friendly ambiance and experience.
Being that it was a Saturday when we opted to visit Moxie Kitchen + Cocktails, we were offered the Brunch
menu and sat outside to enjoy the al fresco dining option. The patio was a
surprisingly pleasing alternative to the inspired indoor space however,
having lunch while overlooking JTB was less idyllic than one would think. Still, service
was prompt, friendly and extremely courteous. Naturally, the first question was
about water – sparkling or still – worth mentioning because Moxie Kitchen + Cocktails makes its own
sparkling and distilled water through a unique filtration system that actually
supplies the restaurant’s tap water and allows for water purification without
the plastic water bottle waste. Pure, delicious and conscientious.
The menu provides for quite the variation – not only in the
types of dishes but also in the way they are prepared. The chicken potpie for
example is not your grandma’s potpie.
This homegrown staple is served in a single serve cast iron baking dish, loaded
with roasted vegetables and sage infused juices, topped with a flaky, cheddar
biscuit crust that quite literally sits atop guarding it's treasure.
Proclaimed to be unexpectedly delicious and ingenious, the chicken potpie is a perfect example of home
cooking with a modern flare and what you can expect from many of the menu items.
But I digress as our “ladies who brunch” foursome started the meal with Moxie’s Deviled Farm Eggs, denoted on the menu as “our way, four ways”. Essentially, these were deliciously prepared deviled eggs just as expected but with a topping twist: roasted cherry pepper, paper-thin gherkin-like pickles, salmon roe, cured sausage slice. Presentation was simple and elegant. Taste was flavorful with four distinctly unique renderings. We were ready for more and sampled the Moxie burger, a beef-pork-bacon blended patty served with French fries – nothing unexpected here – a fresh, leafy Spring Salad with Tofu – upcharge for the Tofu – and the Maine Lobster Roll served in brioche with green tomato ketchup and slaw. Portions were satisfactory and each dish tasty but not notable. Dessert was a treat. The "Dessert of the Moment" was a double-layered lemon custard cake with beautifully toasted and perfectly peaked merengue – just the right size for sharing.
But I digress as our “ladies who brunch” foursome started the meal with Moxie’s Deviled Farm Eggs, denoted on the menu as “our way, four ways”. Essentially, these were deliciously prepared deviled eggs just as expected but with a topping twist: roasted cherry pepper, paper-thin gherkin-like pickles, salmon roe, cured sausage slice. Presentation was simple and elegant. Taste was flavorful with four distinctly unique renderings. We were ready for more and sampled the Moxie burger, a beef-pork-bacon blended patty served with French fries – nothing unexpected here – a fresh, leafy Spring Salad with Tofu – upcharge for the Tofu – and the Maine Lobster Roll served in brioche with green tomato ketchup and slaw. Portions were satisfactory and each dish tasty but not notable. Dessert was a treat. The "Dessert of the Moment" was a double-layered lemon custard cake with beautifully toasted and perfectly peaked merengue – just the right size for sharing.
Although we had no complaints and generally enjoyed the meal,
brunch fell a little short of the WOW factor we were expecting. Perhaps in
order to gain a true sense of the culinary delights that makes Moxie Kitchen +
Cocktails special, one must be prepared to order one of Chef Grays specialty
cocktails, sample a wider range menu offerings and experience the ambiance that
it is known for.
Moxie Kitchen + Cocktails
4972 Big Island Drive
The Markets at Town Center
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